ORME's - Barry Carter HCl-H2O2 M-State

Converting gold to m-state using the HCl/H2O2 method


Summary

Making the purple/red precipitate
  1. Place a quarter ounce of 99.99 (or better) pure gold (beads or smaller) in a laboratory grade glass container.
  2. Place your glass container in a larger plastic or glass catch basin to catch any overflow in case the peroxide causes too rapid bubbling and the acid overflows. It is easiest to see color in the liquid in the inner glass container if the catch basin is white. A liter size plastic tub works well.
  3. Add 50 milliliters of distilled water.
  4. Add 50 milliliters of 30-40% HCl. (Always add acid to water, never water to acid.)
  5. Add 3 milliliters of pure sodium chloride.
  6. Add 3 milliliters of 35% hydrogen peroxide. Weaker peroxide solutions can be used but you must use correspondingly more of them.
  7. Set an inverted plastic cup loosely over the neck of the inside glass container. This will direct any overflow downward if you accidentally get too much peroxide in the mix, it will also keep anything from falling into the neck of the inner bottle.
  8. Place this entire system in a large cardboard box and fold the lid closed. This will help keep the system warm and dark and will help prevent it from being disturbed.
  9. This process will produce chlorine gas which is very toxic. It should be performed in a warm, well ventilated area.
  10. Periodically check the mixture. There should be a continuous stream of bubbles rising from most of the gold beads. The glass container will become warm to the touch. After about an hour, the liquid in the glass container should have a distinctly yellow tint.
  11. When the bubbles significantly slow down, add a few more drops of peroxide. Don't add too much since it takes a few minutes for the bubbles to increase.
  12. Continue to check and add for four to eight hours.
  13. Leave the solution to work over night.
  14. The next day, examine the liquid in the inner glass container. It should be a yellow/green color.
  15. Pour this liquid into a Pyrex glass container suitable for boiling the liquid. This container should be capable of holding a liter of water. It is best if this container is clear. Keep the liquid from contact with any metal other than the gold.
  16. Heat the liquid, preferably over a gas flame.
  17. When the liquid is at about 70-80 degrees Celsius, you can start to add the liquid lye solution which is described in the ORMUS document.
  18. Slowly drip this lye solution into the acid solution while stirring it with a glass stirring rod. This process is quite boring and will take a couple of hours. If you drip too fast, you will get a different outcome.
  19. Periodically check the pH of the liquid by dripping some of it on pH paper on a white plate to the side of the liquid container. Do not use an electronic pH meter since they have metal electrodes which might introduce contaminants into the mix.
  20. When the pH of the liquid is nearly neutral, the yellow tint will be gone and the liquid will be clear.
  21. As the pH nears 8.5 the liquid will get a pink to purple tint. This color will deepen as you bring the pH over 8.5.
  22. It is quite common to add just a few drops of lye water and cause the pH to shoot up above 12. If this happens be ready to add a few drops of 15% HCl to bring it back down.
  23. When you get the purple/red color, you are done with your chemical changes.
  24. Pour the liquid into a tall, thin, clear glass container, like a graduated cylinder.
  25. Cover this container with an inverted plastic cup and place it in a magnetically shielded box to let the precipitate settle for a day or two.
  26. Suck the liquid from above the precipitate off with a syringe or siphon. Save this liquid and adjust its pH down to neutral. This liquid is mostly salt water but should contain significant m-state gold. If you have used pure chemicals in your process it will have no contaminants, it could be ingested in small amounts (5 ml or so) mixed into drinking water.
  27. Take the purple precipitate and wash it with distilled water as described in the ORMUS document. Save all of the wash water for ingestion.
I have been taking a purple gold preparation which is prepared as follows:
  1. Do the first wash on the purple precipitate in the normal way.
  2. With the second wash , save the wash water for consumption.
  3. I have the precipitate in a tall thin vial (2 X 15 centimeters).
  4. There is about 2 millimeters of precipitate in the bottom of the vial.
  5. Fill the remainder of the vial with distilled water and shake it well.
  6. Let it settle for a day or two and take the clear liquid off the top, leaving the purple precipitate to energize the next batch.
  7. Put the liquid off the top into an eyedropper bottle.
  8. I use two eyedropper squirts in the morning and evening.


Here are my original notes from the first couple of times that I tried this process. Note that the procedure has changed significantly.
 
Place a quarter ounce of gold (beads or smaller) in a test tube. Cover the beads with about ten milliliters of 31% HCl. Add a few drops of 35% hydrogen peroxide. (Be careful to have a catch container under the test tube in case the mixture bubbles over. Also be careful not to breathe the fumes produced by this process. Work outside or under a fume hood.) Soon after the peroxide is added, you will notice bubbles rising, mostly from the gold beads. Leave this process to "cook" for an hour or two. If you notice that the bubbles have stopped, add a few more drops of peroxide. Be careful not to add too much as this will cause the mixture to bubble over. Allow this process to continue for at least eight hours. M-state materials seem to need time to "settle in" to their new role.
 
While you are "cooking" the gold, mix some tri-sodium phosphate with water. Put enough TSP into about 100 ml of distilled water that some will not go into solution. When as much TSP as possible is dissolved in the water, heat the TSP solution in a boiling water bath. This dissociates the tri-sodium portion from the rest of the molecule. Set this solution aside for several hours and let it "get comfortable".
 
You can do both of these processes before going to bed and let them "steep" over night. When you are ready to mix the two solutions, pour the contents of the gold test tube into a glass container. Heat it to almost boiling point, either directly or in a water bath. Slowly drip the TSP solution into the gold chloride solution. As you approach pH 7 you can change to lye water. Bring the solution slowly up to pH 8.5. After this point you should notice a small amount of white or off white precipitate forming in your solution. Settle or filter this material out and wash it. It can be quite slow to settle and you may need to let it settle for several hours or over night.
 
The washed white precipitate will dissolve in HCl resulting in a green solution. The first time I brought this low pH solution back up to above 8.5 with lye it resulted in some purple-red precipitation on the top.
 
If you use the powdered TSP instead of a liquid solution you may notice that a small red-brown cloud will form around each particle of the TSP and quickly dissipate. As the pH approaches neutral, you will notice that the red-brown cloud persists for a longer and longer period of time. Above pH neutral you will notice that the cloud formed by each drop of TSP solution is almost black for a moment before turning red-brown and precipitating.
 
As the pH gets above 8.5 you will notice that the drops of TSP no longer have the dark color at first. If you exceed pH 10.8 you will notice that the solution will start to bubble rapidly. If this happens be prepared with some HCl to take the solution back down to a safer range.
 
The red-brown cloud forms into a brick red precipitate. If the TSP is added too quickly, you may get a black precipitate. Some of both of these precipitates will remain partially suspended in the liquid for several days. A centrifuge will help in concentrating and washing the red precipitate but it is not necessary.
 
The washed red precipitate turns brown in HCl but does not dissolve.
It is possible to make the white precipitate and then take the remaining liquid and get the red precipitate. To do this take the liquid which was separated from the white precipitate and take it back down to pH 4 or 5. Add powdered TSP and you should get the red precipitate. I have also gotten the red precipitate and a brick red sponge like material when quickly adding a squirt of 35% hydrogen peroxide. The red spongy material contained metallic gold flakes when I dried it and broke it open.
 
This process uses tri-sodium phosphate. Phosphorus and some phosphorus compounds are quite poisonous. I do not know whether the various precipitates contain phosphorus or phosphorus compounds. One time I tasted some of the red precipitate after only one washing and it tasted awful and I felt like I had been poisoned (or perhaps as if I had a kundalini experience, it's hard to tell the difference sometimes).
 
I also put a teaspoon of TSP in half a cup of water with some gold beads in a 125 ml Nalgene container. I put the lid on tightly and floated this container in a crock pot for about 18 hours at a temperature of approximately 75 degrees Celsius. Jim said that he got a white precipitate from this process. I did not notice a white precipitate except in the water in the crock pot which I assume was the result of the liquid from the Nalgene container leaking out under pressure. I am not sure whether or not I injected some hydrogen peroxide into the mixture.
 
I forgot about this mixture for a couple of days. When I opened it up again, I noticed some foam floating on the top. Then I noticed that the foam was solid. I also noticed that there seemed to be a clear rigid layer of something around these floaters.
 
I poured the contents of the Nalgene container (except for the gold) into a small glass beaker so that I could get a better look at the floating stuff. I took a small plastic measuring spoon and dipped as much of the floating stuff as I could into a small test tube. I then took a metal tipped syringe and sucked the remaining liquid out of the test tube and injected some distilled water into the test tube.
 
The material did not significantly dissolve in the distilled water. I repeated this process three times to "wash" the floating precipitate. When this was done I took the metal tipped syringe and snagged one of the floating bits. I tasted this material and it had a very pleasant sweet taste. It seemed to make me feel slightly good all over but without any drug distortion. When I first started handling this stuff, my lips started to feel slippery. When I tasted it they got very slippery.
 
I just tasted it again. God that stuff tastes good.
 
Today I spoke with a person who is quite experienced in working with m-state materials. This person told me that it is unlikely that I am producing a poison and suggested that I try converting lead to gold using the red material that I have produced. This person said that this is the guaranteed proof that the red material is the right stuff. I have not done this test yet. I am not sure when I will get around to it.
 
Last night (7/20/97) I finally got around to cooking up some green gold chloride that I made using a variant of the method described above. Everything is the same except that I started with a dilute HCl solution. Basically I mixed 100 ml HCl and 100 ml water in the flask with the gold beads. I added several drops of hydrogen peroxide and let this mixture sit for about 24 hours. At the end of that time the solution had a light green tint. No hint of yellow.
 
I took this solution and added about two teaspoons of sodium phosphate tribasic (Na3PO4 12H2O) dissolved in a cup of distilled water. (Be clear that the sodium phosphate was dissolved in water before it was added to the gold chloride solution.) I basically poured the STP solution into the gold chloride solution since the gold chloride was so acidic that I was nowhere near bringing it up to neutral with the amount of TSP that I was adding.
I continued adding TSP and started adding lye water (one half tablespoon of lye in a cup of water). I was adding these with an eye dropper about a dropper full at a time. As the solution got closer to pH 7 it started to loose the green color.
 
While I was stirring in the TSP and lye solutions I noticed that I was feeling quite high. It was a bit like a pot high, but without the distortion and memory loss that pot gives. I also noticed my lips were getting quite sweet and slippery. I asked the experienced person about this. The reply was that this is quite common when working with these materials. To avoid it you should put some pure, lab grade, sodium chloride in with your working solution. Without the salt, the m-state material will evaporate with the water and much of it will be lost.
 
When I reached pH 7 I slowed down to a drop by drop addition with the eyedropper. Despite my precautions, I overshot and took the solution up to pH 12 or higher. (Since there is not likely to be anything precipitating out of this solution but gold, I did not worry about producing a Gilcrest precipitate.) When the pH went up to 12 the solution quickly turned from a colorless transparent liquid to a candy apple red color which soon showed some red precipitate. I added some HCl to bring the pH back down to neutral but the color stayed. I gradually added lye water to bring the pH up to about 10 and then took the solution off the burner to cool.
 
During this process I was noticing that the "high" feeling was becoming more and more pronounced. It never caused any dysfunction but I decided that I should be very meticulous and careful to avoid doing anything clumsy.
As the solution cooled, the precipitate darkened to a rich purple red color. The precipitate that collected at the bottom was a dark purple, about the color of grape juice. I left this stuff to settle out over night and this morning I centrifuged out most of the precipitate that had collected on the bottom of the graduated cylinder. There was about 3 ml of the wet precipitate. I centrifuged and washed the precipitate three times and tasted a very small amount of the material. It had the same neutral taste that I expect from this stuff. It also gave me a buzz like breathing it had last night.
 
I dried the cleaned precipitate on a Corelle plate on my kitchen range. It dried to a purple-black material. There was no noticeable magnetic response.
 
This precipitate feels like the best m-state stuff that I have made yet. Previously I have wondered if I was really feeling anything with any of the other stuff I made. The feeling was subtle, so to speak. There was nothing subtle about this material. It made me feel fine and there was none of the electric jangle that I felt when I first tasted some poorly washed brick red precipitate from an earlier experiment. This material did not feel like it could be poison like the earlier material did.
 
I am going to start another batch of gold chloride tomorrow to see if I can duplicate this stuff. Soon I hope to try the applying some of this material in bees wax to some molten lead. The person I spoke to about this has done this and gotten the lead to turn to gold. They also know of others who have partially changed silver coins that they use to demonstrate that they have done this process. This person knows several others that have made the material which changes lead or silver to gold.
 
On 7/24/97 I duplicated the process above. I soaked about an eighth ounce of gold beads in 100 ml of 31% muriatic acid (HCl) diluted by 100 ml of distilled water. To this I added several drops of hydrogen peroxide over a period of a day and a half. On the second day I dissolved half a tablespoon of TSP in 125 ml of distilled water and put this in a sealed Nalgene container in boiling water for about 20 minutes. I then slowly poured this TSP solution into the green gold chloride solution, which was heated to near boiling. Then I slowly poured half a cup of lye solution (made by adding 2 teaspoons of lye to half a cup of water), while stirring, into the mix. I then slowly stirred another half tablespoon of TSP dissolved in 125 ml of distilled water into the mix.
At this point the solution was considerable lighter but this might just be due to dilution. From this point I added lye water (of the same concentration mentioned above) on an eyedropper by eyedropper basis until the liquid got up to pH neutral. Throughout the entire process I added a total of 3 teaspoons of TSP dissolved in 250 ml of distilled water and almost 6 teaspoons of lye dissolved in 1.5 cups (350 ml) of water.
 
As I brought the pH above 8.5 the solution started turning purple till it was quite purple around pH 10.5. I again overshot the pH and went up to around 12. I was using pH paper and not a meter since the meter does not work reliably in the strong acid. I brought the pH back down to around 8.5 with a few drops of a 15% dilution of muriatic acid and waited for the precipitate to drop.
 
Since there was a certain amount of variation in my procedure between each experiment, I am fairly confident that this is a robust process and does not depend on subtle variables like the phases of the moon or the shape of the container.
 
This process yielded approximately 3 ml of precipitate. This purple precipitate is fairly slow to drop. Some of it will stay suspended for days. It seems that the larger particles drop more quickly. There was one flake of metallic gold floating on the top of the solution today. I am not sure what this means.
 
I concentrated the precipitate which dropped the quickest and put the remainder in a quart glass canister with a plastic sealing lid. I then set this canister on a magnetic stirrer which has a u shaped magnetic element. When I turned it on I noticed that there were two or three particles which seemed to move in response to the magnet. These particles, or aggregations of particles, were somewhat elongated and had two motions. They would spin around their internal axis at approximately the same speed as the magnetic stirrer. They would also orbit around the center of the container in an orbit which did not exceed an inch in diameter. This motion was much slower, probably since the viscosity of the water prevented faster movement. I could get these little structures to spin on their own axis quite rapidly simply by increasing the speed of the stirrer. They seemed to maintain a distance of about a quarter inch above the bottom of the glass canister.
I also looked for any similar response in the containers with the concentrated precipitate but saw no movement in them. The two or three particles could be an anomaly caused by some iron or other contaminant though I have been quite careful to use only clean glassware and materials.
I washed the purple precipitate and saved the first wash in the glass canister. I consumed the material after the second wash.
 
I noticed some slight spaceyness last night but not to the extent that it happened the first time. This morning I noticed somewhat more spaceyness while I was working with the samples. This effect became quite profound while I was working with the magnetic stirrer. If anything it is more intense than it was the last time. Even working with a sealed container, I still noticed a significant effect from something. I am not sure whether it was an effect of the spinning magnetic fields of the motor and the magnet on me directly or if it was a resonance effect between me and the liquid in the canister or if it was simply a result of me breathing m-state gold gas (or some other gas, for that matter).
 
It is difficult to characterize this feeling. I will try to surround it so you might have an opportunity to pounce on it. It is a bit like a low blood sugar feeling. It is difficult to focus on one thing yet when I do get focused I can stay focused without getting diverted. While I have this feeling I feel inclined to be slow and deliberate. This may be intellect directing me to mitigate for clumsiness. There is very much of an in-the-moment feel to this.
Sometimes I notice a slight stomach ache when I am working with these materials. Perhaps I even get a touch of diarrhea. I sometimes get a slightly acid stomach when I eat these things or when I am around them. Eating something else seems to somewhat moderate the feelings related to this stuff. My snot is slipperier and my lips get slicker and sweeter. Orgasms last longer and are more intense.
 
I am storing these samples in metal canisters since Jim says that this helps to stabilize them.
 


Here is another variation on the red precipitate process worked out by someone else:
 
I begin with 50 mls of distilled water in a 250 ml beaker. I pour in 50 ml's of 36.5% HCl. I drop two 1/16th ounce pieces of gold into the bottom. I then add 70 mls of 6% H2O2. (Or until i see bubbles start to really come off. I qualify this by an even stream of bubbles coming off the gold. Not a few bubbles here and there, a nice even stream.) I then add 50 drops of concentrated KNO3. I add 30 drops of NaCl.
 
I let this "cook" overnight. It goes for around 36 hours before the bubbles stop. I let it go until there are no more bubbles. The solution has a greenish-yellowish tint to it. The solution need not be covered but i put something over it to avoid getting dust in it.
 
I heat the solution (when there are no more bubbles of course) until 75º C and then I begin to add dropwise 50% NaOH. This is an exothermic reaction and can cause the solution to get to near boiling very quickly. I like to keep it below 80oC. I feel most comfortable at this temperature. Any hotter and the solution is going to start spattering nasty acid at you.
 
The pH will remain between 1 and 2 for a long time. But continue to drop slowly. The solution will get darker yellow as you proceed. At some point (around 30 mls of 50% NaOH) the pH will start to shift and the solution will turn a faint pink-purple colour. This is the sign that you are close to getting the huge pH shift and your ppt. The colour will return to yellow. Then after a few more drops, you will be able to witness the pH rise quickly to around 12. (With a pH meter. This is not essential) At this point the whole solution will be purple or red colour and you will see a ppt. begin to settle.
 
I have seen purple and cherry red ppts. at this point.
 
I ran your process using silver. As i brought the pH up, i began to get a ppt.
The colour of the ppt. is a beautiful CITRINE!!!! The exact colour that i believe J was trying to explain is essential for the silver process.
 
I have running gold and silver at the same time and then bringing up the pH. I have yielded a very nice ppt. but haven't eaten any yet. What i have eaten has been a mixture of ppt's from the gold run and the silver run mixed together and then cooked for 5 days on low heat (40º C). The stuff is the most powerful m-state i have ever eaten. I literally have around 5 mgs max and I am flying.
[]

I have been taking a purple gold preparation which is prepared as follows:
  1. Do the first wash on the purple precipitate in the normal way.
  2. With the second wash , save the wash water for consumption.
  3. I have the precipitate in a tall thin vial (2 X 15 centimeters).
  4. There is about 2 millimeters of precipitate in the bottom of the vial.
  5. Fill the remainder of the vial with distilled water and shake it well.
  6. Let it settle for a day or two and take the clear liquid off the top, leaving the purple precipitate to energize the next batch.
  7. Put the liquid off the top into an eyedropper bottle.
  8. I use two eyedropper squirts in the morning and evening.
Virtually everyone reports that the high frequency "nada" sound starts after a few days of taking this material. Most people report a tightness in the chest or throat chakra areas. Most people report that they sleep deeper or longer for a few days. Some people report an increase in dream activity. A few report some increased psychic activity.
 
This HCl/peroxide method seems to work on the platinum group metals, mercury, gold and silver. It might not work on any metal which dissolves readily in HCl such as cobalt. It may work on copper and nickel.
I would stick to the platinum group, gold and silver since the most is known about the effects these ORME elements.

Here are some assorted comments from yet another researcher on this process:
"I was sitting here watching my flask of clear solution cool - it was at 9.5 to 10.0. I wondered if residual H2O2 was responsible for the transition so I put one drop in. The solution began to turn purple. I put two more in. The solution is a lilac color right now and it is a tint rather than a dark saturated color."


"I don't know if I blew it or what. After my last message the solution transitioned to a blue color and I tried to manipulate the pH by taking it down and then up again. I got a flask full of and orange red precip. It might be described as brick red - I think I favor the earthy side of the color range here.
 
Is it that if any precip occurs past the target range then the solution is not recoverable. I am not used to solutions which seem to be at the correct pH yet nothing will precip.
 
The correct titration is much more laborious than I anticipated - and seems less forgiving."


"Now I have done it again very very carefully. Even when I was at pH1 I could see that if I wasnt stirring vigourously a faint cloud would form in the yellow solution. I approached 7.0 dropwise from 2 and proceeded very slowly. The color change I was getting was to a blue color - it is not cloudy. Subsequent drops of half strength NaOH show a dark cloud where the drop goes in but I cannot go further without getting out of range. I have stopped the process. I measured and it took 222ml to get to pH of 2.0. It then took only drops to get into range from there."



I was able to take it from the blue back into a strong clean yellow with HCl. I brought it back up to the about pH 9.5 and stopped. I let it cool. It was perfectly clear. After reading your email regarding the blue color I have added NaOH until the pH increased and I saw the blue color return with the drops as they disperse. I put it on a light table where I could watch and the blue keeps getting stronger with each drop and I have gone all the way to pH 14. The blue is almost like steel blue. It is not what I would call attractive and the solution is so dark as to appear black except with strong transmitted light.
 
This does not appear to follow the expectation that this phenomena occurs only up to pH of maybe 10.8 was it. And the color has no red or purple to it - it is not a cobalt blue either. It has almost been like the solution is at the stopping point but won't shift gears so to speak (failure to resonate with the red gold morphic field?).
 
If this sounds like a dead end please let me know - I may be able to shift back into a yellow solution again and take it back to the pH where the magic is supposed to happen.
 
> You may just have a very small amount of the gold in solution. Did you add
> the H2O2 several times in the 12 hours before you brought the pH up?
Yes. The solution had plenty in it by the time it was through. It was barely bubbling of its own accord but if I agitated the flask it would release a cloud of bubbles.
 
I did catch some of the subtleties of the process with repetition. I would like to have confidence that I have arrived at the desired and worthwhile destination of "red gold" though."


I got the red gold tonight - it is my third batch. Thank you for you help. I made myself a burette and it worked beautifully - I will try to take some pictures of my setup sometime soon.
 
It is actually a purple color and very pretty. It took an hour and fifty minutes to run the precip ( that's about 60 minutes rapid stirring with a few 5 minute breaks ).
 
My burette works very very well and it is so simple and elegant ( less than $5 also ). I can set it very easily to put the drops in as slow or as fast as I could want. I was running about one drop for a little over a second with about 5 or 6 stirs per drop.
 
At 30 minutes I had put in 48ml and the pH was 1.0 ( the burette helps measure also )
After another 21 minutes of stirring ( after reloading the burette ) I had put in another 45ml and the pH was 1.0
After another 8 minutes I had put in another 15ml and the solution went clear and the pH was about 8.0 to 8.5
Another drop and the pH was 9.0
Another drop and the pH was 10.5
Upon cooling slightly after transfer into an Erlenmeyer flask the pH read 10.0 and the color was clear with a slight yellow tint.
 
I put the slightest of film of hydrogen peroxide on the very tip of a stir rod and touched the tip only very lightly for a moment to the surface of the solution, withdrew it, and waited. Within seconds the color began to show and spread into the solution slowly. The clear was being replaced and looked like smoke as it disappeared.
 
Ta Da - purple is here. Lilac. With a very small amount of precip so far.