ORMEs - John Hudson Powder


4 L of well water or spring water [John said to use well or spring water  because “the minerals in the source material can attach to the minerals in the  water. The HCL also does this; it holds the impurities.”
200 ml clear concentrated HCL (muriatic acid)
20-100 ml clear concentrated sulfuric acid (H2S04)
2-5 pounds of dirt or fine sand or limestone powder or dolomite or
 Azomite or ……..

1.    Get a one 4 L and one container that can hold 4 liters of water. NO  METAL. Recommend large beaker (borosilicate glass) and a five gallon heavy  plastic utility bucket.

2.    Add 200 ml HCl to the water (NEVER add the water to the acid; ALWAYS  acid to water) and stir this very well. Use wood or plastic spoon, no metal.

3.    Slowly add your finely powdered source material, a teaspoon at a time.  There should be a slight reaction (bubbling, fizzing). More fizz is good, as it produces the best powder product. Add one teaspoon at a time until you have added all two pounds of the material.

4.    Let settle until all solids are at the bottom of the bucket with the water-HCl mixture.  Depending on source material this may take some time.

5.    Filter the solution through at least three plys of unbleached coffee filters with a wad of white unscented toilet paper or paper towel in the bottom.  Use a glass or HDPE plastic funnel (NO METAL). Filter more than once if needed until the solution is clear, no solids visible. Solution is usually clear, but can also be slightly tinted, clear green is desirable.

6.    Pour this filtrate in to a large borosilicate flask/beaker/container
 and SLOWLY add 20-100 ml. of sulfuric acid. Stir well.

7.    Heat slowly to 150 degrees Fahrenheit over a gas flame (preferably) or electric if necessary and stir frequently but not constantly until you see the powder form as the liquid evaporates. This may take all day, and it may form with no heating at all. Remember the fumes are from CONCENTRATED acid, so this must be done outdoors, in an exhaust hood, in front of a fan, etc. DO NOT do this in your kitchen even with an over the stove hood fan! DO NOT let it go dry. When you see that a good amount of precipitate has formed, stop heating, and stop stirring. Wear gloves, and be careful; hot acid is corrosive. Let it cool completely.

8.    After the solution is settled and cooled, and add a few inches of VERY cold well or spring water to the precipitate and allow it to settle completely. Drain the supernatant (the clear fluid at the top) off and wash the precipitate with more cold well or spring water 6 times. John was exact here, no less, no more. Taste it. It should be only slightly salty, and not at all “tangy.”

9.    Put the wet powder is a heatproof oven pan (recommend Pyrex glass, 9 x 13 pan for this size batch as you can spread it out). Place in oven (preferably gas, electric if necessary, not microwave) and bake at 150 degrees and allow powder to slowly and completely dry. Stir occasionally with wooden or plastic tools, no metal. This takes a long time. You can also dry in the sunlight, or use a combination.

10.    Store dry in a cool, dark place.


John made a batch with dried Johnson grass and other plant sources have been used with success. Scale down the recipe if necessary: for 2 L of water add 100 ml of HCL and 10 ml of H2S04 with one pound of source material. More sulfuric acid (up to 100 ml. in a 4 L batch) yields better results depending on the batch and the source material. John encouraged people to play around with the recipe and see…

He recommended the finest grained white sand one could find, where nothing was growing at all in the desert. It must be crushed fine if it is not already fine. He recommended powdered limestone, which is easy to find, but made it from dirt dug in the yard and two pulverized bricks from Home Depot and got good results. The material should have a pH of 9.0-9.5, but anything over 7.0. Look for barren sand and soil with that pH, where no grass would grow.

Filtering: Though he had high tech filtering systems, John preferred unbleached coffee filters and cheap white unscented toilet paper to them as they did a great job removing the fine particulates from the solution and can tolerate the low pH.

Use only COLD (chilled in the refrigerator) well or spring water to wash or add to the precipitate. Chilling the solution in the refrigerator as it settles improves yields (over room temperature).

DRYING IN THE OVEN: As you dry the  powder in an ovenproof glass dish at 150 degrees, the scent is like fresh rain, but do not stick your head in the oven to try to smell it (remember the acid!). The smell is one John associated with a successful batch.

When you are evaporating the solution over the burner stir occasionally until about ¾ of the liquid is gone. Then watch carefully and stir constantly the minute you see the white powder forming, with glass or plastic only (no wood or metal; hot acid!). When the crystals begin to form you must stir continuously until almost all the fluid is gone; then remove from the heat and allow to cool a bit.


So there you go, my friends in ORMUS. This is knowledge which must never be  lost, and is something to pass along in the spirit of love, free of charge, as  John wanted it to be done.

John’s powder is offered now on www.cherokeegold.net made with this very method by the man who called and gave it to us all. This stuff not evaluated by the FDA, and not intended to cure, diagnose, mitigate, or treat any condition.